Munchkin Zombies


The munchkins are dead, but that won't stop them! They're zombies, and they go up levels by eating tasty BRAAAIINNNS!

Munchkin Zombies is based on the original Munchkin and can be combined with it or with any other Munchkin set.

This game includes 168 cards, one six-sided die, and these rules

The foes in this game are mostly normal people just trying not to get eaten, but the rules still refer to “monsters,” for consistency with earlier games. You're zombies. You don't know any better.

The foes that are not normal people are rogue zombies. They're just as tasty as everyone else.


Three to six can play. You will need 10 tokens (coins, poker chips, whatever—or any gadget that counts to 10) for each player.

Divide the cards into the Door deck and the Treasure deck. Shuffle both decks. Deal four cards from each deck to each player.


Keep separate face-up discard piles for the two decks. You may not look through the discards unless you play a card that allows you to!

When a deck runs out, reshuffle its discards. If a deck runs out and there are no discards, nobody can draw any of that kind of card!

In Play: These are the cards on the table in front of you, showing your Mojo and Powers (if any) and the Items you are carrying. Continuing Curses and some other cards also stay on the table after you play them.

Your Hand: Cards in your hand are not in play. They don't help you, but they can't be taken away except by cards that specifically affect “your hand.” At the end of your turn, you may have no more than five cards in your hand

When Cards Can Be Played: Each type of card can be played at a specified time.

Cards in play may not be returned to your hand—they must be discarded or traded if you want to get rid of them.

Contradictions Between Cards and Rules

This rulesheet gives the general rules. Cards may add special rules, so in most cases when the rulesheet disagrees with a card, follow the card. However, ignore any card effect that might seem to contradict one of the rules listed below unless the card explicitly says it supersedes that rule! 1. Nothing can reduce a player below Level 1, although card effects might reduce a player's or a monster's combat strength (p. 2) below 1. 2. You go up a level after combat only if you kill a monster. 3. You cannot collect rewards for defeating a monster (e.g., Treasure, levels) in the middle of a combat. You must finish the fight before gaining any rewards. 4. You must kill a monster to reach Level 10.

Any other disputes should be settled by loud arguments, with the owner of the game having the last word.

You could also read the Munchkin FAQ and errata pages at, or start a discussion at our forums…unless it's more fun to argue.


Everyone starts as a Level 1 zombie with no mojo. (This is a zombie movie, so no one has any class.)

Look at your initial eight cards. If you have any Mojo cards, you may (if you like) play one by placing it in front of you. If you have any usable Items (p. 5), you may play them by placing them in front of you. If you have any doubt about whether you should play a card, you could read below, or you could just charge ahead and do it.


Decide who goes first in any agreeable manner. Heh, heh.

Play proceeds in turns, each with several phases. When the first player finishes his turn, the player to his left takes a turn, and so on.

The first player to reach 10th level wins…but you must reach 10th level by killing a monster, unless a card specifically allows you to win another way.


At the start of your turn, you may play cards, switch items from “in use” to “carried” or vice versa, trade items with other players, and sell items for levels. When your cards are arranged the way you want, go to phase 1.


(1) Kick Open The Door: Draw one card from the Door deck and turn it face up.

If it's a monster, you must fight it. Resolve the combat completely before you go on. If you kill it, go up a level (or two, for some especially nasty monsters!) and take the appropriate number of Treasures.

If the card is a Curse—it applies to you immediately (if it can) and is discarded.

If you draw any other card, you may either put it in your hand or play it immediately.


(2) Look For Trouble: If you did NOT draw a monster when you first opened the door, you now have the option of playing a monster (if you have one) from your hand and fighting it, just as if you had found it when you kicked open the door. Don't play a monster you can't handle, unless you're sure you can count on getting help!


(3) Loot The Room: If you did not find a monster by kicking open the door and you did not Look For Trouble, you loot the room…draw a second card from the Door deck, face down, and place it in your hand.

If you met a monster but ran away, you don't get to loot the room.


(4) Charity: If you have more than five cards in your hand, you must play enough of them to get down to five, or give the excess to the player with the lowest Level. If players are tied for lowest, divide the cards as evenly as possible, but it's up to you who gets the bigger set(s) of leftovers. If YOU are the lowest or tied for lowest, just discard the excess.


It is now the next player's turn.


To fight a monster, compare its combat strength to yours. Combat strength is the total of Level plus all modifiers—positive or negative—given by items and other cards. If the monster's combat strength is equal to yours, or greater, you lose the combat and must Run Away. If your combat strength totals more than the monster's, you kill it and go up a level (two for some big monsters). You'll also get the number of Treasures shown on its card.

Sometimes a card will let you get rid of the monster without killing it. This is still “winning,” but you don't get a level. Sometimes, depending on the card, you might not get the treasure, either.

Some monster cards have special powers that affect combat—a bonus against one Mojo or Power, for instance. Be sure to check these.

One-shot cards (the ones that say “Usable once only”) may be played directly from your hand during combat. You can also use one-shot Items that you already had in play. Discard these cards after the combat, whether you win or lose.

Some Door cards may also be played into a combat, such as monster enhancers.

While you are in combat, you cannot sell, steal, equip, unequip, or trade items, or play Items (except for one-shots) from your hand. Once you expose a monster card, you must resolve the fight with your equipment as it stands, plus any one-shot items you choose to play.

Discard the monster card, including any enhancers and one-shot cards played, and draw treasure. But note: someone may play a hostile card on you, or use a special power, just as you think you have won. When you kill a monster, you must wait a reasonable time, defined as about 2.6 seconds, for anyone else to speak up. After that, you have really killed the monster, and you really get the level(s) and treasure, though they can still whine and argue.

Example of Combat,

With Numbers and Everything

Feral Carol is a 4th-Level Atomic Zombie with the Glowing

Talons (which gives her a +3 to her combat strength). She kicks open the door and finds the Pizza Guy, a Level 6 monster. Carol is at a 7 and the Pizza Guy is at 6, so Carol is winning.

Carol: Want pizza! With BRAAAIIINNS!

Stiff Biff: Pizza is fattening. I'm only doing this to help you.

Biff plays With A Shotgun, adding 5 to the Pizza Guy's combat strength. Now Carol is losing, 11 to 7.

Carol: You baaaaad zombie. Me remember this as long as me…can.

Biff: I sorry. BRAAAAINS! I help you now? (Biff is playing a Level 5 zombie with no special powers, but he is armed with An Arm and a Leg, worth +5, so his combat strength is 10. Combined with Carol's 7, they would have 17, easily enough to defeat the Pizza Guy's 11.)

Carol: Hah. Why you hurt me and then help me? (Carol reads the Pizza Guy's card and figures it out.)

Carol again: Hey, whoever helps me eat this guy gets a level. So I don't feel like offering treasure. Who wants to help me for free?

Icky Nicky: Sure. Me strong. Me help you for free! (Nicky is only Level 3, but she is armed with Another

Zombie—worth +4—and has the Birdhouse, worth an other +4, on her head. So she has a combat strength of 11.)

Carol: Nicky's lower Level than anybody, so I'm taking that deal unless anybody makes a better offer. No? OK, Nicky, it's a deal. We're going for it unless anybody messes with us more…

No one says anything, so the Pizza Guy is defeated, despite his shotgun. Carol goes up a level and claims the Pizza Guy's treasures—two from the Pizza Guy card, and one extra because of

With A Shotgun. They're all face up, because she had a helper, so everybody sees what she gets. Nicky gets no treasures, but she goes up a level, because that's the special rule on the Pizza Guy card. And the game goes on…

Figting Multiple Monsters

Some cards (notably Wandering Monsters) allow your rivals to send other monsters to join the fight. You must defeat their combined combat strengths. Any special abilities, such as fighting with your Level only, apply to the entire fight. If you have the right cards, you can eliminate one monster from the combat and fight the other(s) normally, but you cannot choose to fight one and run from the other(s). If you eliminate one with a card, but then run from the other(s), you don't get any Treasure!

Asking For Help

If you cannot win a combat on your own, you may ask any other player to help you. If he refuses, you may ask another player, and so on, until they all turn you down or someone helps. Only one player can help you, adding his combat strength to yours. Anyone can play cards to affect your combat, however!

You can bribe someone to help. In fact, you'll probably have to. You may offer your helper any Item(s) you are currently carrying, or any number of the Treasure cards the monster has. If you offer him part of the monster's treasure, you must agree whether he picks first, or you pick first, or whatever.

The special abilities or vulnerabilities of the monster also apply to your helper, and vice versa. For instance, if you are not a Voodoo Zombie yourself, and a Voodoo Zombie helps you against the Nun, the monster is -2 against you. But if you are facing the

Tax Man and a Voodoo Zombie helps you, the monster's combat strength is increased by 5.

If someone successfully helps you, the monster is slain. Discard it, draw treasure, and follow any special instructions on the monster card.


go up a level for each slain monster. Your helper does not go up. You draw the Treasure cards, even if it was your helper's special ability that defeated the monster.

Interfering With Combat

You can interfere with others' combats in several ways:

Use a one-shot card. You could help another player by throwing a one-shot at his foe. Of course, you can “accidentally” hit your friend with the card, and it will count against him.

Play a card to modify a monster. These cards (usually) make a monster stronger…and give it more treasure. You can play these either during your own combats or during someone else's combat.

Play a Wandering Monster along with a monster from your hand to join any combat.

Curse them, if you have a Curse card.

Running Away

If nobody will help you…or if somebody tries to help, and your fellow party members interfere so the two of you still cannot defeat it…you must run away.

If you run away, you don't get any levels or treasure. You don't even get to Loot the Room. And you don't always escape unharmed…

Roll the die. You only escape on a 5 or better. Some Items or abilities make it easier or harder to run away. And some monsters are fast or slow, and give you a penalty or bonus to your roll.

If you escape, discard the monster. You get no treasure. There are usually no bad effects…but read the card. Some monsters hurt you even if you get away from them!

If the monster catches you, it does Bad Stuff to you, as described on its card. This may vary from losing an item, to losing one or more levels, to Death.

If two players are cooperating and still can't defeat the monster(s), they must both flee. They roll separately. The monster(s) CAN catch them both.

If you are fleeing from multiple monsters, you roll separately to escape each one, in any order you choose, and suffer Bad Stuff from each one that catches you as soon as it catches you.

Discard the monster(s).


If you die, you lose all your stuff. You keep your Mojo(s), your Power(s), and your Level (and any Curses that were affecting you when you died). If you have Double Mojo, keep that as well. Your new character will look just like your old one.

Looting The Body: Lay out your hand beside the cards you had in play. Starting with the one with the highest Level, each other player chooses one card…in case of ties in level, roll a die. If your corpse runs out of cards, tough. After everyone gets one card, the rest are discarded.

Dead characters cannot receive cards for any reason, not even Charity, and cannot level up.

When the next player begins his turn, your new character appears and can help others in combat…but you have no cards.

On your next turn, start by drawing four cards from each deck, face-down, and playing any legal Mojo, Power, or Item cards you want to, just as when you started the game. Then take your turn normally.


When you defeat a monster, either by killing it or using a card to eliminate it, you get its Treasure. Each monster has a Treasure num- ber on the bottom of its card. Draw that many treasures. Draw face-down if you killed the monster alone. Draw face-up, so the whole party can see what you got, if someone helped you.

Treasure cards can be played as soon as you get them. Item cards can be placed in front of you. “Go Up a Level” cards can be used instantly.

You may play a “Go Up a Level” card on any player at any time.


Each character is basically a collection of weapons, armor, and magic items, with three stats: Level, Mojo, and Powers. For instance, you might describe your character as “a 9th-level Fast Stealthy Atomic Zombie with Glowing Talons and a Shopping Cart.”


Level: This is a measure of how generally buff and studly you are. When the rules or cards refer to your Level, capitalized, they mean this number.

You gain a level when you kill a monster, or when a card says that you do. You can also sell items to buy levels.

You lose a level when a card says that you do. Your Level can never go below 1. However, your combat strength can be negative, if you get hit with a Curse or have some other kind of penalty.

Level Counters: It's Not Cheating, It's Using the Rules!

If you have an iPhone, iPod touch, iPad, or Android phone, you'll like our Level Counter smartphone app. Just search for “Munchkin level counter” or click the link at Even better, it gives you personal in-game advantages to make your friends jealous…which is what being a munchkin is all about!

Mojo: Your “Mojo” is the source of your special zombie abilities. Characters may be Atomic, Plague, or Voodoo Zombies. If you have no Mojo card in front of you, you are just a boring ordinary zombie.

Each Mojo has different abilities, shown on the cards. You gain the abilities of a Mojo the moment you play its card in front of you, and lose them as soon as you discard that card. Some Mojo abilities are powered by discards. You may discard any card, in play or in your hand, to power a special ability. See the Mojo cards for when abilities can be used.

You can discard a Mojo card at any time, even in combat: “I don't wanna be a Plague Zombie anymore.” When you discard a Mojo card, you become just a plain zombie until you play another Mojo card.

You may not belong to more than one Mojo at once unless you play the Double Mojo card. You may not have two copies of the same Mojo card in play.


Powers: There are six of these horrible undead abilities (and 15 cards, because each one appears multiple times). You gain the advantages the moment you play its card in front of you, and lose them as soon as you lose or discard that card.

Each Power in Munchkin Zombies has a Rank of 2, 3, or 4. You may have any number of Powers as long as their total Rank does not exceed your Level. There are no Rank 1 Powers in this game, so starting zombies can have no Powers.

Powers are treated like Mojos. You can't trade them to other players, but you may play a Power from your hand at any time you can legally use it. You may not play Powers that you cannot legally use. But you may discard Powers at any time and replace them with Powers from your hand.

If your Level goes down to less than the total Rank of your Powers, you must discard some Powers so that their total Rank is once again less than or equal to your Level. Duplicate Power cards give no extra effect. When you die, you keep all the Powers you have in play, just as you keep your Mojo.

Some Powers may require discards to use. You may discard any card, in play or in your hand, to power a Power.


Each Item card has a name, a size, and a value in Gold Pieces. Each Item is also good for something. It may give you a combat bonus, or a special ability, or both.

An Item card in your hand does not count until you play it; at that point, it is “carried.” You may carry any number of small Items, but only one Big one. (Any item not designated Big is considered small.)

If something lets you have more than one Big item (for instance, the Strong Power) and you lose that ability, you must either correct the problem immediately or get rid of all but one Big item. If it's your turn and you're not in combat, you can sell the excess Big items (as long as you have at least 1,000 Gold Pieces of Items to sell). Otherwise, you must give them to the lowest-Level player(s) who can carry them! If any Big items are still left over, discard them.

Likewise, you may also use only one headgear, one suit of armor, one pair of footgear, and two “1 Hand” items (or one “2 Hands” item)…unless you have a card that lets you ignore these limits. If you are carrying two Headgear cards, for instance, only one of them can help you.

You should indicate Items that can't help you, or extras not being worn, by turning the cards sideways. You may NOT change your used and carried Items during a combat or while running away. You cannot discard Item cards “just because.” You may sell Items for a level, or give an item to another player who wants it. You may discard to power certain Mojo abilities and Powers. And a Curse may force you to get rid of something!

Trading: You may trade Items (but not other cards) with other players. You may only trade Items from the table—not from your hand. You may trade at any time except when you're in combat—in fact, the best time to trade is when it's not your turn. Any Item you receive in a trade must go into play; you can't sell it until it's your turn.

You may also give items away without a trade, to bribe other players—“I'll give you my Arm and a Leg if you won't help Bob fight the Action Hero!”

You may show your hand to others. Like we could stop you.

Selling Items for Levels: During your turn, you may discard Items worth at least 1,000 Gold Pieces and immediately go up one level. If you discard (for instance) 1,100 Gold Pieces worth, you don't get change. But if you can manage 2,000 worth, you can go up two levels at once, and so on. You may sell items from your hand as well as those you are carrying. You may not sell items to go to Level 10.


A quick reference guide…


If drawn face-up, during the “Kick Open The Door” phase, they immediately attack the person who drew them.

If acquired any other way, they go into your hand and may be played during “Looking For Trouble,” or played on another player with the Wandering Monster card.

Each Monster card is a single monster, even if the name on the card is plural.

Hordes of Zombies!

Several monsters in this set are rogue zombies. They are all tagged Undead. Any Undead monster can join any other Undead monster in a fight, without using a Wandering Monster card.

If you're blending Munchkin Zombies with other Munchkin sets, the Undead from those sets can join the horde, too! (Clerics from the original Munchkin get bonuses against all Undead monsters, even if those Clerics are zombies themselves.)

Monster Enhancers

Certain cards, called monster enhancers, raise or lower the combat strength of individual monsters. (Yes, you can have a negative enhancement.) Monster enhancers may be played by any player during any combat.

All enhancers on a single monster add together. If there are multiple monsters in a combat, the person who plays each enhancer must choose which monster it applies to.

Items—Playing Them

Any Item card may be played to the table as soon as you get it, or at any time on your own turn other than in combat (unless the card itself says otherwise).

Items—Using Them

Any one-shot Item can be played during any combat, whether you have it in your hand or on the table. (Some one-shot Items, such as the Wishing Ring, may also be used outside of combat.)

Other items stay on the table in front of you once they are played. You may keep Items in front of you that you cannot legally use (because of your Mojo, Powers, or because you're already using other Items of that type). Turn these Items sideways. These Items are “carried” but not “in use.” Exception: You may have only one Big item in play at a time unless you have a Power or a card that will let you use more.

You get no benefits from Items turned sideways.


If drawn face-up, during the “Kick Open The Door” phase, Curse cards apply to the person who drew them.

If drawn face-down or acquired some other way, Curse cards may be played on ANY player at ANY time. Any time, do you hear me? Reducing someone's abilities just as he thinks he has killed a monster is a lot of fun.

Usually, a Curse affects its victim immediately (if it can) and is discarded. However, some Curses give a penalty later in the game or have a continuing effect. Keep these cards until you get rid of the Curse or the penalty takes effect. If someone plays a “your next combat” Curse on you while you are in combat, it counts in that combat! (Curse cards you keep as a reminder may not be discarded to use Mojo abilities or Powers. Nice try!)

If a Curse can apply to more than one Item, the victim decides which Item is lost or Cursed.

If a Curse applies to something you don't have, ignore it. For instance, Bass Ackwards makes you lose the armor you are wearing. If you have no armor, nothing happens; discard the card.

There will be times when it will help you to play a Curse or Monster on yourself, or to “help” another player in a way that costs him treasure. This is very munchkinly. Do it.

Mojos and Powers

These cards may be played to the table as soon as they are acquired, or at any time during your own turn. The same is true for Double Mojo, but you must already have a Mojo to play it.

The rest is ads, credits and flavor text.

More Munchkin

Visit World of Munchkin for news, errata, updates, Q&A, and much more. To discuss Munchkin with our staff and your fellow munchkins, visit our forums. Check out Munchkin Resources for reference cards, play mats, and dozens of links.

Other ways to connect to the Munchkin social network:

Twitter. Our Twitter feed often has Munchkin news (or bonus rules!)

Facebook. Connect with other fans on our pages for Munchkin and Steve Jackson Games.

Super-Sized Munchkin

Studies have shown that 8.4 out of 9.7 Munchkin players just can't get enough of the game. Here are some ideas to take your Munchkin games to new heights–or lows:

Combining different Munchkin sets. You can mix two (or more) base sets and expansions together for a genrecrossing mega-Munchkin adventure! Space plus Old West? Kung fu vampires? No problem!

Expansions. Most of the Munchkin core sets have expansions that add still more monsters to kill, new Treasure to loot, and sometimes entirely new kinds of cards. Ask at your friendly local game store, or visit Warehouse 23 to buy directly from us.

Turn it up to EPIC! Playing to Level 10 just isn't enough for some people. To satisfy their insane cravings, we've created Epic Munchkin, a new set of rules that gives all your Munchkin sets that high-octane boost you need to make it up to Level 20! Look for it on our online PDF store–it's completely, absolutely FREE!

All of the above!!!

Faster Play Rules

For a faster game, you can add a “phase 0” called Listen At The Door. At the start of your turn, draw a face-down Door card, which you may play or not. Then arrange cards and Kick Open The Door normally. If you Loot The Room, draw a face-down Treasure, not a Door.

You can also allow shared victories–if a player reaches Level 10 in a fight where he had a helper, the helper also wins the game, no matter what Level he is.

Game Design by Steve Jackson • Illustrated by John Kovalic • Meals on Wheels Guest Artist: Alex Fernandez

Database BRAINpower and Prepress Checking: Monica Stephens • Chief Operating Officer: Philip Reed • Munchkin Czar: Andrew Hackard • Production Artist: Alex Fernandez • Print Buyer: Philip Reed • Marketing Director: Paul Chapman • Director of Sales: Ross Jepson

Playtesters: Curt Brayfield, Merinda Brayfield, Eric Dow, Jonathan Grabert, Richard Kerr, Ilya Khorosh, Aaron Nessim, Kristopher Peterson, Will Schoonover, James Vicari, and Loren Wiseman. Thanks to the attendees at PAX Prime 2010 and Con*Stellation 2010 for their great comments!

Munchkin, Munchkin Zombies, Warehouse 23, e23, the all-seeing pyramid, and the names of all products published by Steve Jackson Games Incorporated are trademarks or registered trademarks of Steve Jackson Games Incorporated, or used under license. Dork Tower characters copyright © John Kovalic. Munchkin Zombies is copyright © 2011 by Steve Jackson Games Incorporated. All rights reserved. Rules version 1.01 (July 2011).

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